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Many horse trainers with solid skills
can load pretty much any horse in under 10-15 minutes. The few of us
that specialize in working with problem horses can usually do it in
less than 5 minutes. But trailer-loading is not a timed event. It’s
not won by how fast any of us can load a horse; it should instead be
about training a horse to be comfortable with all four components of
trailering: loading, standing, riding, and unloading. And that takes
preparation and schooling.
Trailering has several aspects that
tend to make most horses nervous. First off, we are asking them to
go into a small confined area. This is counter-intuitive to their
natural flight instinct. Second we are asking them to “cross” an
object, either stepping up into a trailer or walking up a ramp.
Again – the footing issue in both of these makes most horses
naturally nervous. Third we are asking them to stand and ride in
small, enclosed (often loud) area while they are being moved
somewhere over which they have no control. Lastly, after they have
asked remain upright and steady in a moving container, we then ask
them to back out into the unknown.
Let’s face it – trailering really
does ask a horse to go against its natural grain in a lot of ways.
Do some horses seem to take to it very easily? Sure. There are those
horses that are naturally compliant, with very low fear levels, if
you have one of those chances are teaching them to trailer was not a
hardship. But... even with one of those horses, it does not hurt to
school a horse to be comfortable with trailering, whether they are
fearful or accepting. The more confident and comfortable your horse
is in trailering – the freer you will be to trail ride, show, and
get your horse to the vet for an emergency…. Having a horse that
reliably loads under any condition is one of the best investments in
training time you can make.
So where to start? We start with the
go-forward cue! The go-forward cue is the critical foundation stone
for so many different exercises; this is especially true for
trailer-loading. Please do not start working on asking your horse to
load until you have a rock solid go forward cue developed, at the
hips using the same spot every time. Depending on how trained your
horse is, this can mean going back to the round pen, but more
commonly, going back to line work. The change of direction exercises
is a great place to start. And by the way – do not do these near the
trailer to begin with. Do not even think of adding the trailer into
the training program until that go forward cue is 100%. Once you can
ask your horse to go forward with good energy, consistently, stop
its feet and change direction, then you have completed the first
exercise for trailer loading. For these exercises I use a 12 foot
leadline, a string (also called cowboy) halter and a dressage whip.
The twelve-foot lead line gives a
fairly safe working distance, while allowing for a high level of
control. The shorter the line, the more control you have (pressure
and release 101). However, with a horse that is extremely emotional,
out of control or just plain aggressive, I may start out with a
twenty-two foot line, and then work back to the twelve-foot line as
the training progresses.
Your initial goals for the line work
are pretty simple. You want him to move forward in the direction you
ask, when you ask. You want him to stop his feet when asked. You
want his eyes and overall focus on you. You want him to start seeing
you as the center of his life; to be looking for you to give him
direction rather than to anticipate. When these are accomplished,
you will have gained his respect. Also, this line work exercise is a
true cornerstone of foundation training.
So step one - I ask him to move out
clockwise around me. Depending on the training and emotional level
of the horse, you can use whatever “pressure” is required (a verbal
cue, rope, lunge whip, etc). The trick is to use as little pressure
as possible, but as much as you need to get his feet moving in the
direction you ask. And no matter what, stay with it and follow
through until the feet are moving. And then the instant the feet are
moving release that pressure to reward him. Only reapply it if he
stops again before you have asked for a “whoa” or halt.
I have the horse circle around me
several times (anywhere from four to twelve rotations), then I ask
for the stop. To teach a horse to stop his feet, you remove the
slack from the line and maintain the pressure until he stops. Now of
course when you are just beginning to teach this, (especially to a
horse with no manners and no regard for pressure) you will/may have
to do more than just take up the slack. You will likely need to
start with twenty, thirty or more pounds of pressure to get that
horse to stop his feet. Just like when asking the horse to go
forward, the key is to use only as much as you need, and never more
than that…along with the immediate release of the pressure as soon
as they stop (give). Your eventual goal is to have the horse stop
his feet as soon as you simply remove a bit of slack from the line…
lighter and lighter. This takes time and lots of practice. We don’t
expect success up front, and even this initial lesson could take up
to three or four hours.
Once the horse has stopped his feet,
I pause for a moment. The pause is very important for several
reasons. First, it is a reward in itself – a respite from pressure,
and as horses are by nature lazy animals, no movement is a reward in
itself. Second, it helps teach them to look to you for what to do
next – not to anticipate. Third, you are training another
fundamental building block lesson: the “stand.” Your horse needs to
learn to stand well to be mounted, at the wash rack, for the farrier,
to be groomed, for lots of every day activities, and this is where
it begins.
So after a five-second pause or so,
I asked the horse to do it all over again. Clockwise go forward
several circles, ask for the stop, pause, (praise as needed), and
all over it again. Do not go on to something else or change
direction until the horse is moving out and stopping his feet well,
along with keeping his attention focused on you. Once those are
happening consistently and the emotional level has come down, then
you can change direction and start all over again, but going
counter-clockwise this time.
For correct change-of-direction line
work, which is a gymnastic as well as mental exercise, you should be
attentive to the following indicators to measure your success.
Pay attention to the nose. The
nose should always be in toward you (even if just slightly). This
means your horse is paying attention and focused on you. If/when the
nose goes away, pick up lightly on the line - just enough to get the
nose back in – and then immediately release the pressure. You may
have to keep doing this, but do not give up until the nose is in and
stays in consistently. Balance. Always look for a slight arc
through the body as your primary physical goal. For example, you do
not want the shoulders either in or out; during line work the horse
must be balanced at all times. For the proper physical development
of your horse, it is critical to be aware of how your horse is using
his body while moving. If your horse is balanced he will neither be
pulling on you, nor dropping his shoulder inward. Balance typically
begins once his is relaxed during the exercises. Relaxation. A key
sign that your horse is looking to you for respect and leadership is
when your horse is conducting the exercises well in a relaxed
posture. Common signs that your horse is relaxed include a
consistent gait that is not frantic, lowered head, licking and
chewing, tail swinging.
Now the real beauty of this
exercise, once well-established where your horse truly understands
the cues, is that you will be able to use this as a fundamental tool
to calm him down and get his attention any time and place you have
that need. Whether for trailering, shows, anything new or spooky;
this will become a reliable way to calm your horse and center his
mind back on you.
Remember as you are working your
horse with the go-forward cue, that a horse can go six different
directions: forward, backward, left, right, up and down. If they are
nervous about loading they will likely try to find any escape route
they can – in other words every direction except forward! Your job
with these foundation exercises is to close every door except the
one you want them to go through – and for loading that’s forward. We
do this by making it easy for them to take the door we want, and
difficult for them to move in any other direction.
The next phase is to add crossing
objects into the exercise. Grab a tarp, poles… whatever is handy and
start the change of direction work asking the horse to go over
objects as well. Make sure the horse is completely comfortable
crossing objects, stopping, reversing and also standing on the
object. Once your horse is consistent at this exercise, you can
start incorporating the trailer into the picture.
Now if you have not done so already,
you need to make sure that you have taught your horse solid ground
manners as well. Your horse needs to respond well when asked to move
his shoulders and hips over, and that he has a very healthy respect
for space – doesn’t crowd you at all. This is important prior to
asking them to load because horses understand respect and leadership
through controlling space and direction. If they look to us for that
direction, they naturally become more willing.
This next step is an important area
for your skills in evaluating your horse. You need to determine
where your horse is comfortable around the trailer. There are some
horses that get nervous with a trailer 100 feet away, some 5 feet or
not at all. You need to start doing the change of direction exercise
(preferably with the objects) with the trailer in sight, at the
point where your horse is comfortable. So if it’s 100 feet – so be
it. If it’s right next to the trailer, that’s fine. But please
really take the time to watch your horse’s body language and let him
tell you where he is truly relaxed and confident. Again – this is
not a timed event! Our goal is to school your horse for a lifetime
and happy trailering. Let’s take it slow and do it right now. So if
your horse is 100 footer – that’s fine! And if you are not sure…
then err on the side of caution and put more space between you and
the trailer.
Once you have your starting point,
begin your linework. Just like you would with any scary object, when
you begin the exercise ask the horse for the whoa when he is at the
furthest point away from the object to allow him to be the most
comfortable. As you continue the exercises and he relaxes, you can
ask him to stop and stand closer and closer to the object.
When he is solid at 100 feet, then
you can move to 90 feet, or 80 feet – again – let your horse tell
you where is comfortable! Some people may stop for the day at 100
feet if the horse has made significant progress, and move closer the
next day. You should only stop when you have seen your horse has
made significant improvement – but depending on how fearful of the
trailer your horse is, that will vary.
The goal is to progress right up
until you are doing the change of direction linework right next to
the back of the open trailer. Once you are doing that consistently
and your horse is relaxed, you can start asking the horse to enter
the trailer. Now a few tips here….
No matter what type of trailer you
have, make sure it looks as open and inviting as possible. Ensure
any dividers are out of the way and windows are open. Anything to
make it appear less confined. Now as you begin your linework,
position yourself such that as you ask the horse to go forward, he
would need to go into the trailer to do so. If he only steps toward
the trailer, reward him by releasing the pressure. Let him relax a
moment and ask again. Your goal is that he makes baby steps (if
needed – some may walk right in), but baby steps are fine. One leg
up, reward him. One leg up again, reward him again. Maybe the third
time or so you ask him to stand there for a couple of seconds before
rewarding him. Just keep asking for him to go forward a little more
incrementally, and let him know he is doing well by releasing
(letting him back down) as soon as he gives you a little more try.
If he gets antsy, go back to the linework just outside the trailer
again for a few minutes, and then return to asking him for those few
steps in. If his forward cue has been established, and you have been
releasing the pressure at the right time to reward him, you should
see him progress to both feet in, and then four feet in. Once he is
solid with that, you can start to ask him to stand for longer
periods of time. If he has been turning himself around to walk out
of the trailer, you can then make the next exercise teaching him to
back out of the trailer. And we do this the same way as going in.
Reward for little steps, releasing the pressure as he makes
incremental tries. One thing to keep in mind as you do all the work
is that you are also trying to teach the horse that the trailer is a
good place to be. One way to do this is to make sure that in
general, he gets rewarded for standing quietly in the trailer. Ask
him to work outside the trailer, and then once he is, let him just
hang out (once he is okay standing there). Not asking a horse to
move is a reward in itself for them. He will come to know that the
trailer means he gets to rest.
In terms of teaching them to relax
while being trailered, the best thing is to start with quiet, short
trips, and whenever possible, on road conditions that are favorable
to the horse. So not a lot of steep hills, curves, stopping and
going. Just like teaching them to load, ideally you take the time
and incrementally allow them to build their comfort zone of being
moved around. And of course the type of trailer you have can greatly
increase or lessen their anxiety.
I understand that many times, people
are going to pick-up a horse they have bought, or take a horse to a
show or such, and the horse just won’t load. And so you may be
thinking, well I don’t have the time to do all this. Two things.
First off, no matter how trailer-broke your hors is, by going
through the exercises you are helping to guarantee that he never has
one of those *bad* days where out of the blue he just refuses to
load. And those can happen a lot otherwise! Second – even for those
impromptu situations – these concepts are still effective. This is
what I do for that “load in 5 minutes problem horse.”
Yes, I can do it in 5 minutes
because I have truly come to understand the nature of the horse, and
because I have developed the timing and feel that horses really
understand. This is my full-time job, I have learned when to release
and when to push to get the best results quickly for the times I
need a horse to load very fast. But even then, I still go back and
take the few extra days later to go through all these exercises in
more detail. And even if I only have 5-10 minutes, I still do line
work, cross objects if possible, move closer to the trailer and then
have the horse load from the forward cue. There is always time to do
it right!
So the method is the same for the
“emergency load” versus schooling them to trailer well. The only
difference is in the application. I just won’t take as much time to
maker sure they are truly comfortable at each stage before moving on
to the next but as I said before… I sure will go back and do it
right once I have time!
Now to wrap up, let me mention some
of the aggressive behaviors that we see around teaching horses to
trailer load. Rearing, cowkicking, shoulder in to push you,
striking, bolting and biting are not uncommon. Any of these
behaviors needs to be corrected within two seconds of its
occurrence. If you miss that window, don’t bother, but if the
behavior is likely, have your dressage whip ready and correct by a
single quick strike as follows:
If your horse rears, strike it below
the front knee while the leg is still in the air. For a cowkick,
strike below the hock. If your horse bolts, stop their feet and
bring them back around with quick, decisive action. If the horse
strikes at you or bites, also strike it once below the knee. Please
note these are corrections – not punishments! They should never be
done in anger – and they must be done right away if the horse is to
understand cause and effect. Continue with the correction for each
behavior until the horse desists. Continue also to do change of
direction linework as needed to allow the horse to be using its
energy productively and to stay focused.
So whether you have a
problem-loader, a sometimes won’t load, or even a horse that walks
right into the trailer, by taking the time to do these exercises
with your horse as I outlined (and you can find the step-by-step
details on how to do the change of direction linework and crossing
objects in several prior issues of Ride!), you are ensuring that
your horse will load easily any time you ask. And that opens up a
whole world of activities you can do with your horse. |