Solving Problems through Foundation Training

Western Pleasure 101 — Training

 

This is the second article in our series on the western pleasure disciple.  The first article discussed the selection of a horse. This article discusses the training needed.   To review, the better the conformation of the horse, the easier it will be to train because a well-balanced horse is easier to train. The horse pictured with the first article was not ideal but was an average horse that could be used for western pleasure.  These articles are intended for riders who want to get into western pleasure and can’t go to a training barn or would like to do it on their own as there are many shows where an amateur or novice can participate.

The first thing to determine is the willingness of the horse to be trained.  It is not just physical training but also the horse needs to have a good mind.  The more willingly and compliant the horse is, the easier and quicker it will be to train the horse.  The horse should be emotionally sound.  If the horse is high strung, over reacts because of a high emotional level, has a high flight instinct, or is easily distracted it is not a good candidate as a western pleasure horse is ridden with a loose rein.  A horse that won’t stay focused, is looking ahead or around, and is not quiet will be difficult to train for western pleasure.   The mental and emotional strength of the horse is very important.  

The training of a western pleasure horse, or any horse, is always balance and rhythm.  It is always a forward movement.  A lot of times when people are first working with a western pleasure horse, they are concerned about developing the quiet jog and quiet lope.  The movement is always a forward movement, even if the horse has the slowest jog in the world.  It comes from the rear.  If the horse carries himself properly, the horse is balanced and elevated, has self carriage, and has a collected canter, he will have a better presentation for the judge.  The quality of the gaits is very important; the better the quality, the better the showing. 

Western pleasure was actually introduced around the late 1940s and early 1950s.  Ranch hands would bring their best riding horses to the rodeos.   Each ranch hand had two, three or even a string of horses used to work cows or to ride fence lines.  They always brought the best horse to ride, meaning that the horse was a pleasure to ride.  The horse’s gait was comfortable and relaxed and it was a pleasure to ride the horse.   Through the course of time, we have gotten down to the ultimate really slow gaits and jogs.  We still have to ask, is it a pleasure to ride?  In the rule book it is supposed to be free flowing movement.  It is also supposed to be judged on the size of the horse.  With a larger, bigger boned horse, there is a larger stride.  The stride is still supposed to be free flowing.  

The reason I mention this is that you want to train the horse to carry himself where it is natural for him to carry himself in balance and where he will be balanced in rhythm and cadence.  Per the American Quarter Horse Association (AQHA) rule book, “A good pleasure horse has a free flowing stride of reasonable length in keeping with his conformation.  He should cover a reasonable amount of ground with little effort.  Ideally, he should have a balance, flowing motion, while exhibiting correct gaits that are of the proper cadence.  The quality of the movement and the consistency of the gaits is a major consideration.  He should carry his head and neck in a relaxed natural position with his poll level or slightly above the level of the withers.”  Standing or walking relaxed will show you the natural position based on the conformation of the horse.

The horse needs to be supple.  We need to teach the horse to give laterally and vertically.  We need control of the shoulders and the hind quarters.  This means that our basics, our foundation is going to be spent on suppling, getting the shoulder, the jaw and neck soft and responsive to the rein.  The body must be able to bend and not be rigid but yielding to pressure.  As we go into the training, if I was getting my horse ready to show in western pleasure next year, the first six months I would be working on halts, getting them quiet and soft.  I would work on the trot and an extended trot and a quiet slow lope and an extended lope, suppling and shoulder control.  Going into the last six months of training, I would start to finish the package by looking for self carriage and getting consistency in the carriage.  When you start teaching them to carry themselves, in any discipline but particularly in western pleasure because it is such a slow gait, they have to be able to carry themselves more than two or three strides at a time.  They have to able to consistently carry themselves.  It takes time to develop the top line, which is teaching the horse to use his hind quarters.  You want a rear wheel drive, in other words the stride comes from behind.

Once you have established the basics and are starting to refine the gait and develop the quiet gaits, there are some exercises to improve carriage.  If your horse is traveling on the forehand, in other words the horse is dumping his weight onto the forehand, stop and back the horse and as you back, roll the horse over the hocks and then ask him to go forward.   When you back the horse, the weight is shifted to the hind quarters and as you roll over the hocks (which is like a turn on the haunches) and then ask the horse to go forward with the weight shifted back, the horse will go up under himself.

Lateral work is also a good exercise.  Once I have control of the shoulders and hips, I like to do side pass work.  I start putting together side passing and leg yielding and this teaches the horse self carriage and to be supple.   I will then start teaching the horse how to do haunches in (this is when we ask the front end to stay straight and the hind quarters to tip in toward the inside).   With the haunches in exercise, we get more control of the hind quarters and also control the speed to slow the horse down.  What you don’t want to do but what you may see in the ring, are horses being loped around with the hip to the inside.   This exercise is a tool but the horse needs to be lined back up to go straight down the rail when being shown.  The nose, shoulders and hips need to be aligned. 

Patience is a key to training any horse but especially with a western pleasure horse.  Consistency is also very important.  For example, if you have a horse that is a little long in the back, it may take a lot more patience and consistency on your part to get the horse to start carrying himself properly and using his back more.  Follow through is also very important.  If you ask your horse to move his hips in with a soft cue, make sure the hip goes to the inside. 

In summary, training for western pleasure takes patience, persistence, consistency and follow through.  The horse should be sacked out (desensitized) and able to accept different environments and distractions.  Before showing, you need to trailer to other places and make sure the horse will  listen to your cues under various conditions.

Next month we will be discussing western pleasure equipment and dress requirements.

 

Ride: April 2009

Charles Wilhelm